Contents
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Expedition
Field Safety By John Redpath
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Anniversary Contents page
An Unexpected
Bonus
What was initially a SRGWA trip on the way home from the Quorn conference turned out to be a Post‑Conference trip if there were any interested people to accompany Norman Poulter (SRGWA), Max Meth (CEGSA) and Max Hall (WASG). Well I thought about it and decided that the Nullarbor trip would be a bonus to my long holiday. They accepted me and away we went, just like the Leyland Bros.
A shopping spree at Port Augusta, a medical stop at Kimba for Max Meth and a late arrival at Ceduna for a meal and water provisioning at Max's place saw us ready to traverse the flat country.
We left Ceduna about 8.30 am CST and
with a lunch and socialising stop at the Nullarbor roadhouse for lunch and an
afternoon stop at Eucla to visit Dianna, the local nurse, a few stops to look
at sea caves and the Southern Ocean, we arrived at the Nurina campsite at
9.30pm CST. A very informative drive listening to Max Meth's dissertations
about the history and caving en route!
Day 1 of caving. We set off for 6N37, Mullamullang (a 12 km plus long cave) about 8.30am and arrived a couple of hours later. A large doline entrance and a HUGE rockfall slope to descend down and through the "Southerly Buster" to a HUGE sand dune. After negotiating this hazard we reached the beginning of the rockfall ascents and descents, eventually arriving at the 1 mile marker to place Max Meth's story about possible entrances into a book that has the main historical highlights placed here for all to read.
Another 1/2 km to White Lake, about 100m below the surface.
Retracing our path to the Easter extension and to take photos of the "Coffee and Cream" and "Salt Cellars" areas before exiting the cave at 7.30pm into the late dusk and early stellar beauty of the region. We returned to our camp at 9.30pm after changing a tyre on the trailer enroute.
A misty Nullarbor morning as the sun slowly stirred shinning sensationally, remaining sunny and searing until sunset which saw stellar sights subdue our senses in the silence. Sorry for the alliteration. By the way, today we dug in the 3rd cave on the Roe Plain, 6N324 hoping to reach water about 20m below the surface. The next day saw us continue the digging, but alas, we didn't get much further than about 10m. Bit of a let down really!
Day 4 and into the digging again! A gale blew from the hole in which we had to dig. Dust entering every pore and eye at every opportunity while digging the entrance. More luck this time. It became the 4th cave on the Roe Plain, 2nd to reach water. The 12th cave with a lake on the Nullarbor and the first cave with a lake in about 20 years. A quick exploration found us looking up at a bed of sea shells millions of years old, encountering Tartarus spiders and webs, blind cockroaches, a "house centipede" (later I was to find a smaller example in the Northern Territory) and some amphipods in the lake. A celebratory long hot shower and fresh food at the Madura roadhouse.
Day 5 and the surveying, specimen collecting and photographing tasks took us to 7.30pm after commencing about 10am. The cave at the lower level had a temp of approx. 21.5o C and humidity of 81% and high CO2. Unfortunately, we had to use a generator to charge Max's Toyota before we could return to camp.
Day 6 was a fun and relaxing day. Entering Nurina, 6N46 at 9.30am to take photos around the lake level we exited about 3.30pm to a 33oC and hot northerly winds.
Day 7 and Norman and Max Hall were heading west and Max Meth and I headed east looking for dolines that needed tagging. A quick visit to the sand covered ruins of the old telegraph station at Eucla. Playing the Leyland Bros song, we headed over the country looking for more dolines etc in SA on the 13th April finishing at Ceduna about 8.30.
Thanks to Norman, Max and Max for a very enjoyable and informative trip, something that I thought that I would never do. I look forward to returning in April 1999 with other members of ISS and introducing you to the many wonders of Nullarbor Caving.
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Nullarbor Trip Report
This report is a
concoction by Dave Dicker and Bob Kershaw
After almost 2 years planning
and preparation, we did it! The first
ISS expedition to the Nullarbour. Many years ago the club had trips to the
Kimberly area and a few of those members brought those skills to this
expedition to another remote area of Australia. Thanks Guys your expertise
added to the enjoyment, if not the stories of previous expeditions, of the
trip.
THANKS also to
Max Hall, Max Meth and Norm Poulter for their invaluable assistance in
organising the itinerary and a few hints to make it a less arduous trip.
Without their time
and effort we would still be in Wollongong doing the same old mundane caves in
South East NSW!
Aims
To:
obtain a general
appreciation of the Nullarbor and Nullarbor cave Environment;
Search for, explore,
and survey new caves; and
explore existing
caves on the Nullarbor
Members
Bob Kershaw, Trip
Leader
Andrew and Alison
Scobie
Adam Peters
Lloyd Robinson
John Redpath
Clive Causer
Dave Dicker
Anthony and Tony
(Dad) Pezzutto
Gerrard Collins
Hank Coppus (from Mt
Isa)
Max Hall (all sorts
of Caving clubs)
Paul Devine } Western Australia
Karen
}
Click on the photo
above to enlarge it if you wish.
The Journey Out
Saturday 3/4/99
The ISS contingent generally
left the east coast of NSW about 9 - 10 am, travelling individually and arrived
in Hay about 6.30 pm. After a couple of
beers we headed to the hotel across the road from the caravan park for a bit of
frivolity and a meal. Unfortunately, the locals won the pool games! Alison
handed out the travel games and activities to keep us active over the next few
days, including the dreaded magnet!
Sunday 4/4/99
We left Hay about
8.am (although Anthony’s shoes remained at Hay) and refuelled in Renmark and had
lunch there. We arrived in Port Augusta about 6.30 pm CST. A few beers and a
great meal cooked by Andrew to use up the vegetables.
Monday 4/5/99
We visited Wadlata
from 10 to 12.30, for the historical and geographical information about the
region. Later a quick bit of shopping at Woollies and a visit to the Arid Lands
Botanic Gardens. Later, a few viewed the surrounding countryside visiting the
Tower Lookout. The evening meal was as
a group at the local roadhouse. A few
filled their water containers here as Port Augusta has a good water supply.
Tuesday 5/5/99
While Dave searched for a local fitter to fix his trailer springs,
Gerrard searched for a company to repair a rear broken suspension mount.
Leaving Port Augusta about 11.30am, we arrived in Ceduna about 5.00pm after
viewing several small twisters and fires on the Eyre Peninsula. A quick beer
and off to the local Bistro for a great meal. Here we planned anniversary and
birthday party surprises for a few of the trip members.
Wednesday 6/5/99
We left Ceduna about 9.00 am after meeting Ken Boland and his crew of
Peter Ackroyd, June and George McLucas at Max Meth's Residence, and filling the
spare jerry cans with fuel and water containers and did a bit of last minute shopping.
We arrived at the Nullarbor Roadhouse at midday and met up with Max
Hall and Hank Coppus. We also met Ken's mob again and left there about 2.00pm
after waiting for Lloyd to finally arrive at 1.30 pm. Kens’ group were going to the Catacombs then onto Thampanna.
From
the Nullarbor Roadhouse we travelled in convoy along the highway and viewed the
spectacular cliffs from a couple of lookouts before heading off the highway
20kms east of Eucla to head to Warbla cave (5N1). The entrance to this cave is
a large collapse doline and leads to an extensive cave. However, as we didn’t
have a permit to cave in South Australia, we didn’t enter. En route from Warbla
to Weebubbie, our planned camp for this night, the axle u-bolts on the driver’s
side on Max's trailer fell off so we made camp about 1.5km east of the WA
border for the night. Lloyd, Max and
Bob walked back along the road for about 3 kms to see if we could find the
u-bolts, but alas they could not.
The Caving Part of the Trip
Thursday 8/4/99
Some keen and intrepid people arose at 6.15am to a very dewy morning.
Many photographs were taken of the innumerable spider webs in the fog! Eventually, by 9.30am Max's spring was
jury-rigged with wire and the Octopus strap, in the event, the repair lasted
the rest of the trip.
Some distance down the track, we stopped to
locate an unnamed cave (6N1015) which Max knew of, but hadn’t descended. The
problems of finding caves on the Nullarbor were graphically illustrated, it is
necessary to be very close to an entrance before seeing it, particularly some
of the smaller caves which don’t have a large doline entrance.
Gerrard volunteered to descend and was followed by Adam and Andrew. The
cave was about 15 metres deep and ended as a small (0.2M) diameter hole with a
breeze emerging. Later, we all
travelled the few kilometres to Weebubbie Cave (6N2), arriving at 4.00pm. A
ladder was set up and the whole group, except Lloyd and Bob, descended into the
doline and scrambled down the rockpile to the lake. Some people elected to take
photos, while others went for a swim. We all emerged on last light and drove
the 20 km to Abrakurrie Cave (6N3), arriving at 7.30pm, where we set up camp
for the night. During the evening, Paul and Karen arrived.
Friday 9/4/99
The entrance to Abrakurrie Cave is in a long, gently sloping doline,
some 200M long and 50M wide, the entrance being at the southern end. We made
our way down the easily negotiated entrance rockpile, to a large, flat-floored
chamber. The total surveyed length of the cave is 300M, but seems longer. The
main passage (hallway) is at right angles to the entrance chamber, and has a
flat, sandy floor and a beautifully
arched roof. Many photos were taken, particularly of the domes at each end
of the passage. This is a most impressive cave!
We all surfaced for lunch, then Max led us several kilometres south to
Kutowalla Doline (6N44) which doesn’t seem to have a cave attached, and then on
to Winbirra Cave (6N45). Winbirra is a very deep and impressive doline, but
hasn’t got much cave below it. Several of the group descended. On our way back
to Abrakurrie, some of us stopped to further extend the dig in 6N222. This cave
consisted of a few possible leads situated in a shallow doline, with some air
emerging. We opened up one rift to 1.5-2.0m and a practical joke played on Bob
saying that it went!!!, before the afternoon shift arrived to take over.
Hank had found a small blowhole near 6N222 that Lloyd, Hank and Bob had
a dig in but some cave dissolver would help here.
During our digging session, Max and Paul had found a Joe Jennings
doline 6NX390 later numbered 6N1602 and named Sarib.
Saturday 10/4/99
Dave fed the location of 6N1602 into his GPS and we left at 8.30am
driving the 20 kilometres or so through the bluebush. We got within 100M of the
cave about lunchtime. Later descending
the cave and started surveying, coming up with 150M of cave, most of it dry,
dusty and low. Two places were noted that had a breeze emerging, so some
digging was done, but didn’t break into anything.
Gerrard, Alison, Karen, Paul and Hank left early to visit Lonesome
cave, and the remainder of the group returned later to Abrakurrie Camp, taking
several photos en route. . Later in the evening, Lloyd convinced Adam and
Anthony that a dig in Abracurrie was the go, so they descended Abrakurrie Cave
armed with shovels. They emerged later without extending the cave a great deal. Andrew practised his saxophone playing in
the cave and the rest enjoyed some pre-dinner nibbles. The Lonesome group arrived at camp at
7.30pm.
Sunday 11/4/99
Paul, Karen and Gerrard headed off for a Jennings Doline about 23kms
away. The rest of us headed into
Abracurrie to take more photos and to listen to the echos of the musical
instruments - Alison on guitar, Adam on Banjo and Andrew on the Sax. This was the prelude to presenting Clive
with a Wedding Anniversary card!
We exited and broke camp heading off to 6N734 Lonesome - a blowhole in
the middle of a claypan and a small entrance with a strong breeze coming out.
Most of the group descended, while Clive and Dave had the afternoon off, and
Bob caught 40 winks. Around 4.00pm the group emerged, reporting an interesting
cave with a fair bit of loose rock which could be dangerous.
After packing up the gear, we headed down to Mundrabilla Roadhouse for
a refuel and where we all had a shower and steak sandwich and icecream. About
7.30pm we then headed back up the escarpment and camped a few kilometres away
in the treelined roadside. A few ports
as everyone helped Clive forget the long distance of his day!
Monday 12/4/99
We headed off about 9am after watching Shetland ponies for a while, and
headed 40km west to the corner of a paddock near the Mundrabilla boundary. We had some lunch, then, after dropping off
the trailers, five vehicles headed in a northerly direction. We had 100 - 200
metres between vehicles, but we gradually diverged until we lost sight of the
others. At the 7.7 km mark, Dave saw Max waving his arms in the distance, Max
had found another blowhole. This one was about 1 metre in diameter and had a
cold blast of air emerging. Holding the thermometer above the entrance, the
temperature stabilised at 210C with an outside temperature of 350C..
At this stage, we realised that all the caving gear was in the trailers, so Max
volunteered to return and get the gear. In the meantime, Adam found that one of
his tyres had gone flat, so it was changed. Around 2.30pm, Max returned with
some gear, and the cave was rigged with a 30m and a 10m ladder and Adam
descended. He reported that the ladders didn’t reach anywhere near the bottom,
so he emerged and a 50 metre rope was rigged and Andrew descended and reported
that the rope only just reached the bottom. Allowing for 5 metres of rope to
the anchor vehicle, the pitch is 45 metres deep and there were two passages
heading in opposite directions at the bottom.
The cave was designated 6N1603.
By
late afternoon, we had the gear packed up and were heading back to where the
trailers were parked. So we headed off for Thampanna and to see if the 3
musketeers had arrived at Thampanna. We arrived well after sunset, and sure
enough, the three “missing” people were there. After tea, the whole group got
together and went over what we’d achieved over the last few days, and what we
intended to do over the next few. The point was also made that no one should
leave the group without:
1 Letting the trip leader
or Max know where they will be, giving GPS locations.
2 Having a definite place
to meet that evening
3 Having a definite time
to meet.
At this meeting we decided to return to 6N1603 to survey it and attempt
to find the cave that Max was told about.
6n1603 was not the one!
Tuesday 13/4/99
We awoke to a foggy morning and we tried to get away at 8.00am but it
took two attempts to repair a spare tyre for Adam and we followed our tracks to
6N1603. They were very distinctive, and will be there for a few years to
come. We arrived at 6n1603 about
11.30am. Another aim of the day was to
do some searching for Max’s “big entrance” north of 6N1603. From 6N1603, 3
vehicles, Lloyd’s, Gerrard’s and Dave’s headed north, while the rest of the
group surveyed the entrance and headed down 6N1603 with digging and survey
gear. The vehicular group’s intention
was to head north for 5km, then east, then south for 5 km. For the first 4 km
the going was easy, and they had lunch in the shade of a clump of trees. Max
joined us on his bike, then went off to do some further searching. We moved
east to a slight depression, finding the bluebush fairly dense. We kept going
south investigating various possibilities, until we sighted the vehicle at
6N1603. The time was 2.00pm and we were right on time. The caving group were just starting to
ascend, reporting that the cave petered out in both directions, mainly due to
silting up. It needs a more serious dig than we were prepared for. We returned to Thampanna and had a few
pre-dinner nibbles while Paul, Karen, Tony and Anthony and Gerrard headed into
Thampanna while the rest had a few ports later on before another one of Dave’s
“I’ll think I’ll turn in” nights.
The wind had become very strong from the east and caused a few of us to
erect a wind shelter.
Anthony Pezutto at left by Tony Pezzutto in Thampanna
Wednesday 14/4/99
The day was cloudy with a good breeze after a dewy night. This was
planned as a “day off”, so we had a leisurely breakfast, then did some vehicle
maintenance. Midmorning, most of the group headed down Thampanna Cave, and the
rest left around lunchtime. Tony and Anthony lead the way beyond the U-tube as
they had been in the previous evening, were many of us practised our
photographic techniques. Clive and Dave
hung around camp and checked their food situation, finding that there was plenty
to last until the 24th, their departure date
On the way out Adam and Bob found the plughole, the way into the rest
of the cave including the “Railway Tunnel” which is a misnomer! Gerrard, Karen and Paul had gone to Railway
Tunnel area today and later they walked to a Max Meth Dig, the Hurricane Hole.
Thursday 15/4/99
Today was Dave’s 50th Birthday and he didn’t let on but we all knew and
gave him a surprise birthday party later in the evening. Thanks to Dorothy and Dave’s Mum!
All
except Max, Paul, Karen and Gerrard headed into Thampanna. Lloyd, Clive, John and Dave headed down the
Duckunder, while the rest of the group followed the main way on to the Drain
and the rest of the cave. Lloyd and
company followed a .6M high crawl to the “U Tube”, which completely fills when
the rain is heavy, then on to the two chambers with the good formation. The
formation is not dense, but what’s there is pristine and beautiful - not much
activity at the moment. Some of the stalactites are perfectly clear, while some
have a beautiful apricot colour. They spent some time photographing, then
headed out to the eliptically shaped tunnel near the “U Tube”. Some time was
spent photographing this feature.
Lloyd’s group finally emerged at the bottom of the entrance pitch
around 4.00pm to find Andrew at the top. He and Alison had come out early, as
Alison didn’t feel too well. The rest of the group emerged later, reporting an
arduous trip, not reaching the lower parts of the cave, but they did get to the
Gypsum Chamber in the Tube Paddock and the Heartbeat area.
Dave (in the photograph on the left by John Redpath) says “Around the “campfire” I was given a
pleasant surprise, a 50th birthday party complete with cake and sparklers. I
couldn’t imagine a better place or company to celebrate”.
Our pleasure Mate!
Friday 16/4/99
Dave
was up just on sunrise - pancakes for breakfast. We packed up and Lloyd and
John started to fix Adam’s electrical problem. We left Thampanna about 10am and
drove via a new cave Max found on the previous day. It was small and Adam did a grade 1 survey for the group. We were a bit lethargic after the long day
yesterday in Thammpanna. We headed for
camp 5 arriving at the campsite around 1.00pm.
We had lunch, then walked the kilometre or so to “Liar’s Lair”. This
cave is an easy walk in cave with a flat dusty floor and a flat roof. It has a
lot of good formation, most of it dry and dusty at the moment. Many photos were
taken for which the trip leader offered a bottle of port for the best shot for
the day, and we started back out well after 5.00pm. Bob had returned early to complete the cave maps of the previous
days work.
Saturday 17/4/99
After the dewiest night yet, we were going across towards “Devil’s Lair
by 9.00am, dropped off the survey team of Alison, Andrew, Tony, Anthony and Bob
and then continued on to “Stegs Cave” (6N149). It is named after an unusual formation which occurs
on the cave floor. The cave is easy walk in (crawl in) and is extremely well
track marked. There are several places which are quite roomy, but much of it is
low (0.5 - 1.0M). The cave has a very wide flat roof, and is well decorated
with some unusual formation, some of it black. We spent much time taking
photos, and emerged around 2.00pm. Back at camp, we had lunch and then later in
the afternoon, Max took Hank and Bob to Fern Cave (6N747). Fern Cave is very short but which has ferns
and mosses growing in the daylight area in the entrance doline, a beautiful
sight in this arid region. It also seems to be a habitat for many swallows.
Dave stayed at camp with some Goanna Oil and a bandaged foot and some went back
to “Stegs”. Just on dusk the various parties returned after a magnificent
sunset had many people inspired to use up a couple of rolls of film.
Over a get together later, we gave Andrew and Alison a Wedding
Anniversary card for the 18th as they had their own plans for a late morning the
next day!!!!????
Paul and Karen left for home this afternoon.
Sunday 18/4/99
The day started very spectacularly with one of the best sunrises so
far. This morning, some went to “Stegs” for further photography, some went to
“Matilda Cave” (6N370) and seven of us
went to “Fern Cave”. Many photographs were taken and the group emerged at
10.30am, and returned to camp. Morning tea was had and John and Clive put some
more work into finding the problem with Adam’s electrics. By the time Adam’s
problem was sorted out, (probably in the trailer plug in the vehicle), it was
3.00pm so we continued with our rest. Around 4.40pm we wandered over to Adam’s
shade relaxing with Alison and Andrew over some pre-dinner nibbles.
The evening sky then warranted may photos taken of Stella bodies.
Monday 19/4/99
Most were up by sunrise (including Anthony). We were all packed up and
ready by 8.45am when we had to jump start Adam’s car and Dave’s Range Rover!
We headed off and found a cave - 6N758 - that Max had explored with Max
Meth, Norm Poulter and Son Robert pre GPS days - a good memory Max! The cave
was found by Robert Poulter (Norm’s son). The entrance is not noticeable until
you are right on top of it. There is about 1 M of soil and a small round
entrance pitch. Anyway it had not been entered since, so we entered to survey
the cave. However, a couple of small
Whip snakes in the entrance kept the early intrepid explorers attentive while
they rescued/removed one before continuing the exercise. The cave was unnamed until now but was duly
christened Snake and Ladders, as we laddered through a small blowhole to enter
the cave. Much Possum urine, dead
kangaroos, extinct possum skeletons and an intact snake body were found. The snake-skin later given to George McLucas
to identify. Lloyd, Clive and Dave went
for a walk across some flats and onto a hill, skirting the hill, noting one
particular place where the ground sounded distinctly hollow - but there was no
evidence of any depression or doline.
They then skirted the hill again and arrived back at the cave. The
survey team was still down Snakes and Ladders, but by late afternoon, the
surveyors were out of the cave so we all headed on towards Sentinel Cave (6N1411), arriving on dusk.
Tuesday 20/4/99
After a light shower overnight, the first on the trip - we were heading
underground into Sentinel
around 9.30am. The entrance is easily accessible and leads into a large
entrance chamber. From the chamber, the way on leads down a 45degree rockpile
slope, and eventually into the Sentinel chamber. The cave is obviously the
habitat of many small animals and many bats. The guano and smell is quite thick
in parts. The daylight area is the habitat of swallows and possibly other birds.
The Sentinel is a column/stalagmite, the column side having parted from the
roof by a metre or so - the floor seems to be dropping. The overall height is
about 15 Metres. Many photos were taken around the sentinel, then Lloyd, John,
Gerrard, Clive and Dave headed out, taking several photos on the rockpile and
in the entrance chamber, a great photographic exercise in a cave that should
produce some interesting results.
Gerrard was found asleep in his car at 3.30pm while the rest of us were
hard at it. The youth of today just
can’t keep up with the old blokes!
The rest of the afternoon was spent loafing and socialising. Patchy
cloud came over later in the afternoon so we put up the awning - the first time
yet. Later Gerrard escorted Lloyd and
John back into Sentinel to view the right hand branch to the abseil pitch.
Hank left today to join Ken Boland back at Thammpanna.
Wednesday 21/4/99
After a night of patchy cloud, the morning was cool and overcast. The
group headed towards Anzac Cave, about 1.5 km away, while Dave had a rest day
(crook Foot). The day was fine and sunny with the usual wind around 3.00pm. To
our surprise Ken Boland’s party had arrived at our campsite en route to their
cave for today and left two boxes of vegetable for us, saying that the CSS
group didn’t take as much as they ordered.
Rather chuffed and thankful at the gesture, not that we were running out
of food, we gave them some $ to put towards the cost of the vegies.
Later in the evening we had an
expedition dinner to: thank Max for his assistance during this expedition;
wish Gerrard a happy 21st;
have a break-up party (Clive and Dave were heading out tomorrow); and
appease our social activities Director, Alison with our songs and
fireworks.
Thursday 22/4/99
Dave and Clive left to head home.
The rest of us left about 9.30am after jumpstarting the Nulla cruiser
again.
We stopped of at a Rockwater hole tagged 6N649 and then went for a walk
over the countryside in search of new caves, as Max said this area has not been
fully examined.
So off we went! Lloyd John and
Gerrard found 4 small sinkholes, so the rest of us decide to walk the hillside
and John stumbled onto a new cave, 6N1605 - latter named Swallows Nest. We walked back to the cars and camped near
this new cave ready to survey it later in the afternoon. Andrew, Adam and Bob surveyed the cave while
the rest commenced to remove a couple of cubic metres of material in following
a couple of leads, but to no avail.
While we were examining this cave Max found another 2 caves in the area
on his bike.
Friday 23/4/99
Max Hall in his underwear holding the joey expelled by the Kangaroo, in Skippy Cave. What happened to his overalls?
We split into two groups - Lloyd, John, Tony, Anthony and Bob to look
at a dig - 6N1606 and the others to a ladder climb with better prospects -
6N1607 later named Skippy. The story of
Skippy will be told around many future campfires and probably be exaggerated
too! Maybe the couple of photos will
add to the mystery. The diggers removed
a cubic meter or so of material before concluding that a backhoe would be in
order and headed back to camp. En route
'an enthusiastic and in a rush’ Max, wanted some gear to retrieve an animal
from their cave.
As the Skippy party didn’t want to survey the cave as the adrenalin
rush was too much, Anthony, Tony and Bob entered the cave and completed a grade
1 survey.
After we returned to camp we drove 40kms to a camp Near Kestrel,
arriving about 7pm
Saturday 24/4/99
Light rain overnight and during the day and cold temps saw us
underground in 6N1322. This was a cave
Lloyd and Miles Pearce entered on 25/4/95 and Lloyd said there was a large rock
blocking his path that needed to be removed.
So all the diggers gathered and enabled Gerrard to enter a tiny section
before claiming it got too small for him.
Bob, Adam, and Alison surveyed the cave. Adam, Andrew and Alison exited early to cook up the vegetables
and provided us with a great pumpkin soup and baked vegies. We exited to fine sunny afternoon with many
photographic opportunities.
Sunday 25/4/99 ANZAC Day
We were up about 5.45 am to a very cold 5oC morning for a
brief ANZAC Day Remembrance Ceremony.
Thanks to Andrew’s sax practise it was a moving ceremony.
Later,
about 9.00am we left for Mullamullang.
After a quick trip, we entered Mullamullang and spent some
time photographing the sand dune and then headed for Smoko Junction where more
photos of the large passage were taken.
As we exited, the major rock fall was subject to many electronic flashes
attempting to light the cavern.
Lloyd and Tony searched the Southern Doline until 3.3opm claiming that
the doline needs to be fully examined for potential leads.
We ventured off to Madura Roadhouse for some food, cold showers, spare
tyres for Max’s Trailer and a few beers.
We arrived at the Roe plain campsite, our last on the Nullarbor for this
trip, about 9pm.
Monday 26/4/99
Rain again early in the morning and it continued until about 11am with
cool S-SW winds.
We
visited the quarry to search for fossil shells. Later we headed for Madura Cave 6N62 to take photos of Gerrard standing in a daylight
hole. Back to camp for a late lunch
before entering Nurina cave 6N46 to take more photos of Alison standing above
the water. Lloyd’s suggestion of
lighting the water from under the water looked quite effective.
The photograph on the left of a snake by Anthony Pezzutto was taken in
Madura Cave.
Andrew and Adam had lived up to their cooking skills and provided us
with more pumpkin soup and a baked meal around a camp fire to celebrate our
last night on the Nullarbor.
The Journey Home
On the morning of Thursday the 22nd of April, Clive and Dave were packed and ready to leave by
8.00am. They were leaving the
expedition early as they wanted to do some leisurely sightseeing on the way
home, and Clive was flying out of Sydney on the 30th of April.
On the 24th, they travelled down the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula,
stopping at the blowholes near Streaky Bay. These are a 150mm diameter vertical
hole in the top of the cliff, joined to a large wave eroded chamber at the base
of the cliff. When a wave comes in, the compressed air roars out of the
blowhole. The local Aboriginies must have had some interesting stories to tell
about them. From Port Lincoln, they travelled up the east coast of the
Peninsula to Port Augusta.
On Monday the 26th of April, Dave and Clive drove down through
Adelaide, noting the almost complete absence of traffic (Anzac Day public
holiday). They had a good run
south-east, stopping just on dusk at Warnambool.
Our aim for today is to travel along the Great Ocean Road, stopping as
the scenery dictated. For example at
Loch Ard Gorge. Where the waves were
coming straight in from the south. We continued along the coast, heading down
to the Cape Otway lighthouse, then on to Apollo Bay, where we stopped for the
night. From Apollo Bay, we headed east, skirting the western edge of Melbourne,
and continued on to Gundagai, where we stopped in a motel. It was only a matter of a few hours
driving on Thursday and we arrived at Lansvale at 12.00.
27-29/4/99
|
The rest of us headed for home.
Bob and Gerrard visited Lucy Eglinton at Mundrabilla
station, visiting the old telegraph station at Eucla and taking photos at the
Nullarbor Plain sign and arriving in Ceduna about 8.pm and a great meal at the
Bistro.
Hearing that Sydney had experienced a severe hailstorm 2 weeks ago and
that the SES was still active, Gerrard and Bob drove from Ceduna to Renmark on
the 28th and from Renmark to Wollongong on the 29th arriving in the “Gong” at
10pm.
The A Team went via
Broken Hill and arrived home on the 30th about midday.
The Pezutto’s went
via Adelaide and the Barossa Valley.
Lloyd and John were
last seen at Eucla on the 27th. We
found out later that they walked the old wharf at Eucla and proceeded to Port
Augusta via Port Lincoln.
Summary
ü we were on the Nullarbor for 21 days
ü had any were between 9 and 15 persons in the
group at any time
ü only had one flat tyre from the ISS group
ü no accidents - vehicular or personal
ü visited/explored etc about 30 caves/dolines
ü travelled about 5500 kms overall
ü travelled about 900 kms on the Nullarbor for
caving purposes
Some comments by Dave
about the trip
Final Trip, Equipment
and Supplies Analysis.
The first thing we
did on returning home was to unpack the vehicle and trailer and have a close
look at what was left. Following are a few notes on equipment and the trip in
general.
Vehicle
As my vehicle had
high mileage when I bought it, the lead up preparation was intense. However, I
felt that I’d completed all the jobs necessary. The only problem I had was an
unexplained flat battery on one occasion. The battery was the biggest I could
fit and was new. The problem was not repeated.
Trailer
The towing of a
trailer proved to be a good choice. It enabled us to keep the inside of the
vehicle fairly clear of loose gear, all the spare fuel was carried in it, and
most of the water. There was plenty of room to stow most of the food. We tended
to live out of the left hand side of the trailer. In the event, it did not
significantly affect our fuel consumption. We returned an average of 15l/100km
on the whole trip, and 1`3.5 - 14 l/100km on the open road. The only problem I
had with the trailer was that the springs sagged a bit more than I anticipated,
resulting in the shackle plates contacting the main frame. This was a
preparation problem, as I didn’t test run the trailer before the trip.
Fuel
I carried a total of
120 litres of fuel, 80 l in the main tank, and 2 x 20l containers in the
trailer. I consider this adequate for the purpose, as we didn’t use the
containers until we were on our way home. However, there were a few times when
we arrived at our source of supply with the warning light on.
Water
We carried a total of
120 litres of water. This proved adequate as I still had 20 litres left when I arrived
home. (Bear in mind that we left the expedition a few days early.)
Food
There were some lines
of food which I overstocked on: TVP,
dried fruit, energy bars, cereal. Some were left over because I’d anticipated
having a number of lunches in the field (away from the vehicle). For the next
Nullarbor trip I’d cut down on these, and increase on: small tins of tuna,
cracker biscuits, savoury biscuits, freeze dried meals, tins of fruit.
General Equipment
General equipment
falls into one of two categories:
Things we took but
hopefully wouldn’t need eg 1st aid kit, toolbox
Things we took wit
the intention of using
I would not leave any
equipment I took behind, nor can I think of anything extra I would take.
General Trip Comments
The trip ran smoothly
without any logistical problems, the early preparation was thorough, we had
good leadership, and everyone stuck to the main aims of the trip.
Everyone’s vehicle
and equipment was well prepared - there were no major preventable failures.
The weather was kind
throughout the trip. This promotes a harmonious trip.
Expedition Song
by Gerrard and Bob
Once an jolly speleo
with apologies to
A.B. Paterson
Once an jolly speleo
camped by a sweet Quandong
under the shade of a
Big Mallee Tree
And he read and he
looked and waited as he GPS’ed
Who’ll come a caving
and digging with me
caving and digging
caving and digging
who’ll come a caving
and digging with me
An he read and he
looked and waited as he GPS’ed
Who’ll come a caving
and digging with me.
Over came a speleo
group to cave on the Nullarbor
up jumped the speleo
and greeted them with glee,
and he read and
stowed that GPS on the motor bike
who’ll come and dig
out this cave with me
caving and digging
caving and digging
who’ll come a caving
and digging with me
and he read and
stowed that GPS on the motor bike
who’ll come and dig
out this cave with me.
Up came a survey team
mounted in their 4wheel drives
out jumped the
speleos, one two three,
where’s that jolly
ladder you’ve got in you 4WD
you’ll come a caving and digging with me
caving and digging
caving and digging
where’s that jolly
ladder you’ve got in you 4WD
you’ll come a caving and digging with me
Back went the speleo
to get the gear left behind
you’ll never explore
a cave like that.
And his bike maybe
heard as it passes over the nullarbor
you’ll come a caving
and digging with me.
caving and digging
caving and digging
who’ll come a caving
and digging with me.
And his plane maybe heard
as it passes over that big doline
you’ll come a caving and digging with me
caving and digging
caving and digging
who’ll come a caving
and digging with me.
The Cavers from Wollongong
(based on “The Man from Snowy River”)
by Anthony Pezzutto
There was movement in the ‘Gong, for the word has passed around,
That the caving club was heading Nullarbor way,
And would join the wild bush horses, shetlands, ‘roos, and cows,
So many cavers set off and gathered at Hay.
There was Lloyd Robinson, who’d earned his fame with all the caving that he’d done,
The old man with his hair as white as snow,
But few could cave beside him when his blood was fairly up,
He’d say “grab the shovel! That hole surely goes.”
And Max of Balladonia came across to lend a hand,
No better cave hunter ever flew a plane,
And no-one could dissuade him from hunting those caves down,
His favourite hunting ground?, Why?… The Nullarbor Plain!
And he towed behind his “Cruiser” a small and weedy beast,
It was something like a racing bike undersized,
With a touch of Honda engineering – Three parts trail bike at least –
And as such made cave hunting a breeze.
It was light and tough and wirey - just the thing to zip around –
The Saltbush never did invade its tread;
And it took its rider proudly with his bright and cheery style,
As he zig-zagged across the hills up ahead.
The rest of us in rovers formed a line across a pan,
And on cue we charged across the plain,
With a cry of “Bonanza” and a few of “Roll ‘em out”,
To find a magnificent cave was our aim.
So we drove on hot and dusty, only hope was our friend,
“Oh let us find a hole soon” we all said,
“And we hope that it’s a beauty, where formations abound”,
“And a large crystal clear blue lake at its end”.
“And we hope it’s not a low one, like Thampana’s Drain in length”,
“A 200 metre crawl with our stomachs on the deck”,
“Where our boots and clothes drag dust and rocks every time we move”,
“And we grunt and groan and wonder where it ends”.
And the Nullarbor cavers on the plain make their home,
Where no river runs, nor giant hills to see.
I have seen a few landscapes since I first commenced to roam,
But nowhere yet such landscapes have I seen.
So we drove, Max found a new cave by a small Snotty Gobble clump,
Us four wheelers raced away towards the cave grounds,
Where a helmeted man in pink overalls waved his arms up in the air.
The cave he found by riding round and round.
And the Rovers we did wheel them, we surrounded the hole,
Now we must climb boldly and never fear the spills,
For the ladders, ropes and harness’ were all in the trailers,
Left back in the shelter of the trees.
So Max rode to get the gear. Then Adam and Andrew raced down the tube,
Like the best and boldest speleos taking their place,
As the first humans in this cave. They made the tunnel ring,
“It’s 45 metres deep and has a small room at its end.”
Then we halted for a few days at Thampana camping site,
And met up with Gerrard, Karen and Paul,
Then a call came down the short wave, “I’m surrounded. By ZULUS!” He said.
But it was just Clive, And boy did he have everybody fooled.
Not long before at Abracurrie, that void so large and black,
That resounded to the A-team’s repertoire.
A dig nearby where pranksters calls woke the echos, and from another hole a voice answered back,
But after enthusiastic investigation, Bob said “I’ve been had.”
And onward ever onward our convoy made its way,
From camp to camp, caving as we went,
Searching here, surveying there and photography on the side,
Ever eager for the next dark decent.
And Bob, our trip leader, missed his Kombi, he said,
But he swung his fist around and gave a cheer,
“But I don’t care. I’m on holidays, and caving you see.”
The rest of us agreed with a chorus of “Here, here”.
One crew was seemingly alone deep in Skippy Cave,
Then Adam, on a hill, exclaimed “OH _ _ _ _!”.
Tony enjoying himself in a Nullarbor Cave
For he was suddenly surrounded by a “mob” of kangaroo,
The others from a crawl said, disbelievingly, “Yeah right.”
They lost it for a moment, until Gerrard grabbed its tail,
While Max’s overalls wrapped the joey, all in pink.
After wrapping, tying and hauling they got the two roos out.
And sent the two confused from the sink.
But the hardy Illawarra speleo’s finally had to stop,
They were dust from head to toe from the caves,
Though their pluck was still undaunted and their eagerness fiery hot,
They had to return to Wollongong again.
And down by Mt Keira where the temperate rainforest ridges raise,
Their torn and rugged battlements on high,
Where the air is clear as city smog, and the white stars try to blaze,
At midnight as coal trucks roll by.
So we leave the Nullarbor, where the Saltbushes sweep and sway,
To the breezes and the rolling plains are wide.
Oh the man from Balladonia has shown us many things,
And we all would like to thank our new friend and guide.
I have had a few E-mail communications with Max
Meth from the Philippines recently about our trip to the Nullarbor. While he is enjoying wedded bliss he has
found time to review our trip report and comment on it and update some
information. What follows is a summary
of our communications. Read between the
lines and it makes a bit of sense.
Max got married to a very lovely lady named
Hennie Guansing on 24th July and is now waiting for certain paper work (and
bureaucracy) before returning to oz. Hennie works during the day, and Max stays
home and is a good housewife. Instead of which sometimes he uses the computer,
and had a couple of questions.
As you may recall, I gave a talk on the
"Jennings Dolines" at the Quorn ASF Conference. There are still quite
a few of the "Jennings Dolines" still not visited by cavers. Of
course it is unlikely that one of the remaining ones will yield an
outstandingly
good cave, but it is possible. Sarib Cave is 150m long and that is a
significant find.
This is actually one of the "Jennings
Dolines" listed by Jennings as being visible on air photos back in 1963.
It took a long time before anyone went to check it out.
"I am amazed at the depth of the blowhole
you found. That is far and away the deepest one on the Nullarbor." THIS
WAS 6N1603
IT HAS A SQUARE TAG SILICONED TO THE LIMESTONE.
Re the new names given to some caves seen on
the trip. The name SNAKES AND
LADDERS is in use by another cave (6N434) so is
not available for 6N758.
Might I suggest Whip Cave?
The cave 6N758 is now Whip Cave.
The previously unnamed doline 6N608 is now Dead
Tree Doline. Actually
that insignificant doline (there is no rock
exposed in it) is the north most
member of a chain of dolines that extends from
Winbirra to Chowilla
Landslip.
Bob’s comments
THIS WAS A CAVE THAT PAUL DEVINE AND HIS TWO
ASSISTANTS MUST HAVE FOUND BECAUSE IT IS NOT IN MY TRIP LOG. THEY SEPARATED
FROM US FOR A FEW DAYS. ONE OF HIS PARTY who was with our trip HAD MY GPS AND
LOGGED ITS LOCATION AND COMMENT.
For 6N1605, the name "Swallows Nest"
is ok but I prefer to use another name.
Because:
a) there are swallow nests in very many caves
and dolines (probably in all of them).
b) Swallow Cave is an old (unused) name
for 6N49 Pannikin Plain Cave.
c) Many Swallows Cave 6N332 already uses the word "swallow".
The general policy on naming is not to use the same word too many times.
Could you come up with another name?
Bob’s Comment
THE CAVE HAS A LARGE CIRCULAR SLOPING CAVERN INSIDE WHICH WE NAMED THE BALLROOM A 45M X 30 M CHAMBER.
HOW ABOUT THE BALLROOM CAVE OR THE SWALLOWS BALLROOM CAVE?
I would love to hear the "story of Skippy ".
I read the story. It certainly is worth telling and retelling. It is so unbelievable that it has to be true. No one could invent such a tale.
I have some bad news. Not really bad.
But it seems that the four features that your party found and numbered as 6N1604 to 1607 have duplicated numbers.
Bob’s Question.
we were under the impression that Paul Devine was going straight home considering he had a badly damaged windscreen courtesy of a kangaroo and dusk and that he wasn't after caves.
After Paul Devine left you, he continued with his trip finding many new features, all of which he tagged.
He went straight home, kind of, via an area he had previously noticed on air photos, via the Trans Railway Line. This runs straight into Kalgoorlie. And he is a good friend of the owner of Balgair Homestead (10km south of the railway near Rawlinna). So of course he called in there. He logged about 15 new features on that trip.
On a later trip he numbered up to 1637. He is a busy little caver. He is finding stuff that (mostly) is completely new. Consequently I need to renumber the four you found.
They are now 6N1644 to 1647.
That is, 1604 becomes 1644 and so on.
I hope that does not cause too many problems.
As an aside, I would rather this sort of thing happen, than not to get any data on new features.
It is, generally, a difficult matter to determine if a feature is indeed new (and not previously numbered). And especially so in the field. Both Max Hall and Paul Devine had copies of the data.
But it is confirmed that the four features are all new.
If you find features that you suspect are new (anywhere, not just on the Nullarbor), it is helpful if you tag them. You can "allot" a temporary number of your own. eg RK1, RK2.
The data on the features can be then sent to the record officer for that particular caving region. He (or she) then allocates a permanent number and makes a note to change the tag on a future trip. That way the features get into the records system.
If the features turn out to be already numbered, then there is no harm done.
The temporary tag will simply be replaced by tag with the correct number.
I will now see to it that these four features are visited and the tags changed.
And if the can bases turn out to be suitable tags, I may start using them.
Return to Nullarbor contents page
A compilation by Anthony, Tony,
Lloyd and Bob
Participants shown in the photo below: Left to Right
Fran Head (WASG), Lloyd Robinson, Tony Pezutto,
Ian Collette (WASG), Bob Kershaw, John Redpath, Max Hall (various Clubs), and
Anthony Pezutto (kneeling).
The trip over
Bob had a good 3-day trip to Port Augusta and
waited for the others to arrive. John and Lloyd had a pleasant trip, while Tony
and Anthony who were a bit behind in their preparations left Wollongong about
9pm on Sunday 1st - 12 hours behind Lloyd and John and more than a day behind
Bob! Anthony and Tony just wanted to give them a start, thinking that the
Subaru would catch them by the time we all rendezvoused at Port Augusta.
The Pezzuttos made good time to start with,
speeding through the cool of the night. But past Hay they experienced motor
problems - a punctured radiator hose - and some running repairs got them to
Balranald. The message here is to carry spares because no one
except a panel beater had any hoses that would fit the Subaru.
Later, it became evident that towing a heavy
trailer, carrying a loaded roof rack and speeding for hours on a hot day, plus
the load inside the Subaru did not please it and the P’s had to stop several
times to let the boxer cool down. The P’s eventually arrived at Port Augusta at
10pm on the 2nd.
Tuesday 3rd April
We filled up the water drums (more weight for
the Subaru) but a noisy trailer wheel delayed us until we tightened the wheel
nuts. A quick trip into Port Augusta cost Anthony $118 fine for crossing a
white line in a deserted commercial road. We all then set off for Ceduna. Not
slowing down in Poochera, cost Tony $201 fine - Oh the happy joys of
motoring! After setting up camp at the
caravan park, we met up with the legendary Max Meth and had a chat about his
married life, the Nullarbor and caving exploits in general, over dinner at the
local club.
Wednesday 4th April
We managed to obtain fruit and vegies (and
socks) and the appropriate certification from the SA Agricultural inspector and
then headed to various places west. Bob managed to get the to Madura Cave
campsite on the Roe plain, arriving just on sunset after a long day’s drive.
Tony and Anthony left Ceduna and headed west. But en route they had an
appointment with an overheated engine- actually a water seal on the water pump
blew. John and Lloyd, having seen a distressed Subaru at the side of the road a
few kilometres earlier, followed the P’s to Yalata where they saved the day by
rewiring the engine air conditioning to cool the engine without running the air
conditioning itself. They then drove together at reduced speed (not over
90kmph) to Eucla, had dinner and decided to spend the night in their lovely
theme camping area (the Stony desert with complementary Hoards of ants, the
amenities block was good though). The Subaru gave the P’s no more problems for
the remainder of the trip. The lessons learned are to reduce your
weight - you don’t need the kitchen sink and reduce your speed - it is easier
on the car and your pocket!
Thursday 5th
Tony, John, Lloyd and Anthony got up early and raced at a steady pace to Madura to hook up with Bob and his speedy Kombi. Bob had a leisurely morning! He left the Madura campsite about 7.50am and waited for the others to arrive at Madura Roadhouse at 10am. Joined by the common goal of caving, we then left for the Mullamullang campsite and arrived there about 2pm and set up camp. A hot day so we escaped to the Refrigerator cave and searched through a few squeezes and exited about 5.50pm in time to see the sunset and cook the leg of lamb and baked vegies!
During this week at Mullamullang, we enjoyed the best meals of our Nullarbor stay thanks to the fresh meat and fruit and vegies we brought with us and the goods supplemented by Fran and Ian.
Friday 6th
Today we went walking south to examine the watercourse to the south and during this hot 34 deg morning, found a sink and an Aboriginal water hole.
After lunch at camp Bob, Anthony and Tony surveyed 6N1330, the Refrigerator, and exited about 4.45 pm and waited in the cool and then surveyed to 6N37 and 6N133 to put 6N1330 in relation to them. Lloyd and John were in the other hole and the 6N37 doline during the day.
A great reheated lamb and stir fry had us ready for a chat after the meal.
Later, about 9pm some went for a walk to measure the air speed of the Refrigerator at 15kmph. (That must something that Meteorologists do?!?!?!)
Saturday 7th
A cold SW change rushed through during the early morning, bending Lloyd’s tent like the bough of a tree with wind gusts up to 60kmph. Later in the afternoon the Pezzutto Construction Company (PCC) erected a stone wall to keep the wind out of their tent. Meanwhile the kombi remained on 4 wheels!
During the day we surveyed down
to 6N1332 and 6N37 and then the south Col. 6N1332 is very unstable and
a note to that effect has been placed on the inside for future visitors.
Sunday 8th
We left about 9.30 am to look around the underground edges of Mullamullang to search for any leads. Later, John and Bob exited and then walked to 6N73 a blowhole (to which we all returned in a few days time). John and Bob walked back finding a 2 wheel drive track eastwards from the camp!
Fran Head and Ian Collette from WA arrived about 7.30pm and enjoyed our leftovers!
The photograph at right shows Bob and Lloyd checking
the air speed coming from the Refrigerator cave.
Monday 9th
Today was a journey into the depths of Mullamullang on a tourist trip, entering the cave at 9am and exiting at 5pm. Tony writes that “the highlight of this period at the [Mullamullang] main cave where we spent the whole day walking, climbing and sometime crawling, taking lots of photos and video film of the ‘sand dune’, the ‘Southerly Buster’, ‘Smoko Junction’, the ‘Easter Extension’, the ‘Coffee and Cream’ area and the ‘Salt Cellars’, the ‘One Mile Cairn’ (where we read reports of the history of Mullamullang, including the finding and subsequent coroner’s inquiry of the two bodies found near here) and to ‘White Lake’ a 50m long by 6m wide clear blue-green lake, surrounded all around by rocks and walls heavily encrusted with brilliant white salt deposits - well worth the long walk and often steep climbs over the may rockfalls.”
When we returned to the main passage, after visiting the Easter Extension, Fran returned to Lloyd who was digging near the entrance, and kept him company for a couple of hours. A chat around a small campfire discussing the day’s events completed the day.
Tuesday 10th
Tony found a hole just north of the campsite and when we took a tag to tag it, we found that it had a tag 6N99. 9.30am and we all packed into Ian’s Toyota Troop Carrier. Yes even Lloyd! We then headed in search for a couple of prospective caves to the east. One turned out to be a large claypan sink which we tagged 6NISX001 and proceeded west another 450m and found a hole that even with a bit of digging didn’t go! It was a Caver’s mermaid. It kept saying ‘keep digging. Keep Digging.’ and then dashed our hopes in a pile of Rocks. We tagged this one 6NISX002.
In the afternoon we returned to 6N73 and Anthony descended the 20m pitch and we tried the hand held radios - excellent reception within a few metres of the hole through the limestone. Anthony found a couple of dead snakes and a thong at the bottom and alas the cave did not go any further. We returned about 4.30pm and gave Anthony a cooking lesson.
Wednesday 11th
We departed Mullamullang site a 9am and arrived at Madura at 11.30 am for a shower and to meet Max Hall and his distinctive truck and trailer. We left Madura about 2.30 pm and headed west along a dusty road on the Roe Plain for about 50km and just south of the escarpment set up camp in a beautiful copse of trees at 4.30pm (P.C.C MONUMENT # 2.), where we stayed for the next 5 days.
The photo at left shows Tony Pezzutto at the Bridge on the Roe Plain.
Thursday 12th
We left camp about 9.30am and headed south on the Roe Plain about 4km through thickets of tea tree and crossing the old Telegraph line (circa 1860, which first connected Western Australia to the eastern states) and found 6 features, tagged them and surveyed 2 to water. We left the last one at 5.30pm and headed north through the tea trees, using our lights, to the road and then walked 3.2km along the road to the campsite and arrived at camp at 8.30pm. All up about a 20km walk! We were all rather tired and bushed!
Friday 13th
A relaxing morning, helping Max repair a flat tyre from his bike and recovering from the long walk the day before and repairing the heater vents under the kombi with aluminium cans. An early lunch and we relaxed under the shade of the trees in 31 deg temps until 3pm. Up the escarpment we went looking for an Aboriginal rockhole on the plateau and admiring the magnificent view of the Roe plain and looking at were we had walked the previous day.
Saturday 14th
we left camp about 8.15 am and
drove up the road for about 3km before the
return walk through the tea tree to finish off surveying 6N1953
and 6N1954
with a high CO2 level. We arrived back at the car at 4.30pm. During the day
Fran, who stayed at camp, walked up the Wylie Escarpment the campsite and found
the Cologna water hole plus a rock wall enclosure with an entrance, the one we
searched for the previous day.
Sunday 15th
Fran and Ian left today to return to Perth!
The rest of us walked up to the water hole and found the rock wall fence, old fireplace and a large waterhole. Lloyd was given close scrutiny by a curious emu and allowed to stay. Which also solved the puzzle of the miniature cowpats and the lack of cows, miniature or not. We then packed up and left camp about 12.30pm and arrived at Madura at 2.30pm admiring the escarpment and looking for possible caves form the road. We left Madura about 5pm after showering, laundering and eating, and headed east along the Old Coach road on top of the escarpment to “camp 15" (because it was the 15th) near 6N78 and arrived at 6.15pm.
Monday 16th
Today walked about 10km to 6N78and
surveyed it, unfortunately it didn't go any further.
We also surveyed 6N1961
and found and tagged 6N1957, 1958
,
1959
and 1960
.
We returned about 5pm and decided that tomorrow we would move further eastwards.
Tuesday 17th
We drove further east and parked
the cars and then walked to 6N79.
A large collapsed doline that unfortunately did appear to go until the Pezutto
construction or destruction team [THE PEZZUTTO EXCAVATION TEAM (P.E.T.)] went
to work and added 38m of low crawl passage in a stream way while Lloyd built a
couple of silt traps in the stream ways.
We hovered between the cool cave and the heat wave conditions outside and eventually braved the walk back to the cars in 36 deg temps.
Later we drove to near the
“Skippy Cave” camping area, fining a large campsite about 6pm and still in 30
deg temps and tagged 6N1962
en route.
Wednesday 18th
With the possibility of rain and
winds from the SW we walked to 6N1947 to retag it. Then we headed west to
search for 6N80,
a large surface doline but no cave. A quick survey and tag and we proceeded
further west to find caves spotted from the air during one of Max's flights
over the area.
We found and surveyed 6N1963,
1964
,
1965
.
A long 12 km walk and decided that tomorrow would be a short walking day.
Thursday 19th
Today a short walk of 8kms
leaving at 10am and we found and surveyed 6N1968
an aboriginal waterhole and a couple of insignificant holes. An early afternoon
restamping tags as we were running out of tags that Dave Dicker had made for us
prior to the trip. Max rode south and returned jubilant that he found a cave
that goes.
Friday 20th
We departed about 9.15am and headed south on an "unknown to Max" track to find an old antenna site and ruins at the end of the track. It transpired later on the trip that it was an old Telstra site for conducting frequency experiments prior to the microwave towers being constructed.
We also found a great area for an
improvised airfield among the saltbush. Later we walked to 6N1972 an
unstable collapse and a bit of surveying and crawling found very little. We
returned to the car at sunset and a few photos of the landy travelling into the
sunset impressed Lloyd. We returned to camp at 6.15pm to cool SE winds.
Saturday 21st
We took photos of a few skulls that Tony found a couple of days ago before heading south to the escarpment to find a couple of dolines but no prospects. We then headed west to a small hole that the construction company enlarged until Anthony could fit down and a couple of metres of passage.
Then a quick walk to 6N200 Petrogayle, located near the escarpment, and started to survey it until we came across a previous station. So a quick explore and we found some great formation in what seemed to be unexplored passage. But we had no cameras to take photos of the formation which was the most interesting of the whole trip!
We headed back to camp about 5pm and took great sunset photos and eventually arriving at camp at 6.15pm.
Sunday 22nd
A photographic trip all day in 6N200. Bob walked around the peninsula that 6N200 is located in and admired the view.
The others exited the cave on sunset and we spent the next 20 mins taking more sunset photos and returned to camp at 7pm.
Monday 23rd
Bob left early to return via the Madura roadhouse to Wollongong for a job interview and had an uneventful trip home.
The remaining members broke camp
and drove along skippy track to a point near to caves found two years ago. We walked to “Ballroom Cave”. Some entered to see if any water flow had
assisted our digging. No luck here,
very little water had entered this cave.
Tag 6N1605 was removed and replaced with tag 6N1645. We returned to the vehicles and walked the
1.2 km to Skippy Cave to remove tag 6N1606 and fit tag 6N1646. A temporary tag IX35 was
fixed on a nearby hole.
We then drove along the old coach road to Madura roadhouse for a meal. For the remaining daylight we drove to within 35km of Cocklebiddy roadhouse and then south to set up camp near a giant disused microwave tower, which was only 16km from our campsite of Wednesday 11th.
Tuesday 24th
John, Anthony, Tony and Lloyd
formed a rough "line‑ out", ‘emu parade’, what ever you want to
call it. A manoeuvre that we had become all too familiar with on this trip,
(where is that Group sponsorship from Yamaha or Honda when you want it?), on
the 2.04 km walk to the Wylie escarpment while Max scouted on his “ag
bike”. In a more regulated order a
"line‑out" proceeded west along the escarpment until we came to
a gutter, which we followed and found a sizeable waterhole. This
was tagged IX36. On the east side of the gutter a cave was
found, surveyed, photographed and tagged IX37
. It was obvious both these features were known
to the past landholder as there is some concrete work and a stockman type
drawing in the cave. After a break we continued the western "line‑out"
for a total distance of 3.18 km along the escarpment and in the same manner for
4.05 km to our camp.
Note: possibly due to the tree cover, this large area has received little attention from cavers.
This was the end of the trip as far as caving is concerned. In all Max covered 350 km during the trip on his ag bike, scouting for caves. And then being our last night on the Nullarbor for a while we sat around the campfire talking for half of the night, saying ‘goodnight’ several times during that time only to get caught up in conversation again!
Wednesday 25th
We broke camp, drove to the Eyre Highway and east to the Madura roadhouse for a shower and early lunch. After exchanging notes, we said goodbye to Max who headed west to Ballodonia Roadhouse, and we ISSers headed east into the wild blue yonder seeking the familiar lights of Wollongong and a warm, comfortable bed.
John and Lloyd followed the Pezzutos, stopping at Eucla to advise the police that we were out of the area.
Thursday 26th
In heavy fog at our bush camp near Nundroo we ate, broke camp and drove in convoy to the camping ground at Port Augusta.
Friday 27th
From Port Augusta the two vehicles made their own way home, The P’s arriving home at 5.30pm on Saturday 28th April after travelling 5980kms.
Return to
Nullarbor contents page
By John Redpath
See article in NARGUN Vol 33 No 9 p56 which reinforces John’s
Comments
The recent ISS Nullarbor trip high-lighted several areas of field
safety that we could improve upon.
No, we did not lose anyone, but in retrospect there are several areas
we could look at, to improve our commitment to safety in the field.
Hand held UHF radios.
Bob had on loan two hand held UHF radios. These proved very effective
in several areas.
1. Vehicle
to vehicle communication with a range up to three kilometers.
2. Vertical
shaft decent and ascent. (The actual person climbing can communicate with the
surface.)
3. For
fieldwork when searching for caves and features.
The search method, which we employ, is probably typical of most search
groups. We may have a known GPS reading of a feature or cave, but instead of a
single line, follow the leader approach, we employ a lineout. Members are
spaced at 100 metre intervals shoulder to shoulder.
Using this method we are able to cover a large area and pick up unknown
caves and dolines. (And this we did). However this method does have some
dangers for searches when one loses site of the adjacent searcher and cannot
make voice connect.
The reasons for this can be one or combination of the following.
1. Low scrub or trees
2. Ridges or rocks
3. Difference in the walking pace of the individual searchers
Using the UHF radios at each end of the lineup we were able to
effectively communicate end to end, but had to yell to adjacent searchers.
An improvement to this search method that could be employed would be
that each member of the party has an UHF radio for instant communication.
Max Hall, our resident Nullarbor host has an UHF radio, which he
effectively uses on his search motorbike; and we were able to be in constant
contact when the separated distance was not excessive.
Clothing
Another area that improved safety effectively was the colour of
clothing. White overalls were easy to see and stood out even when only
glimpses of the member could be seen. They do get dirty but they are probably
the coolest to wear in the warmer climate. The darker coloured overalls blend
into the surrounding country and were difficult to locate. The added bonus of
the white overalls, is that they show up well in cave photography
Finding your way.
With the magic of the GPS the location of features and recording of
data is beyond belief. In the hands of a competent operator the tool has become
the standard for navigation and recording.
Not all expedition members’ carry a GPS but should carry a compass and have knowledge of its uses. The compass is light and compact, can
be carried in a shirt pocket and can be used for general navigation.
The need to carry a compass was highlighted one morning when an
expedition member felt the need to answer a call of nature. Equipped with the
appropriate material and shovel he headed out of camp to a friendly position
beyond the site of camp.
Unfortunately the morning was overcast (no sun to navigate by) and all
ground features looked similar. When it was time to return to camp our member
was “Bushed” and unsure of the camp direction. (A compass would have been
handy) Voice contact could not be made.
Being resourceful, he was able to put his shovel to work (not to dig a
hole) but to drag the shovel on edge leaving a straight line trailing mark in
one direction for about 150 meters, at this point and still in unfamiliar
territory was able to return to the starting point of the shovel drag and head
off in a 90 degree direction to repeat the exercise; on the third attempt camp
was sighted.
This process allows you to return to your starting point and not wander
off into the unknown. It can be repeated as many times as necessary in
different directions, and can be extended in distance until sightings of
familiar territory is seen.
After concerns were being expressed on the time away from camp, our
member returned and explained what had taken place.
This highlights how easy it is to get disoriented within a short
distance from camp. The method used to find camp is worthy of note!
(The old shovel trick)
The last two days of the trip were spent on the escarpment above the
Roe Plain about twenty kilometres west of Madura. The camp was close to an
abandoned 200 feet telstra microwave tower that acted as a homing beacon for
our field searches. At times the tower disappeared from sight due to tree cover
but it soon was located again using a compass and looking in its general
direction. Without the tower as a landmark, navigation in this type of country
(flat and with scrub above head height) would be very difficult even with a
compass. The GPS is obviously the best means of navigation in this
situation.
Nullarbor
Weather April 2001
Date/Time |
Temp oC |
Barom Pressure hPa |
Humidity % |
Wind direction |
Wind Speed k/h |
Cloud |
4:0800 |
33 |
1007 |
20 |
NW |
16 |
|
5:1800 |
28 |
|
|
|
|
|
6:0800 |
25 (34)noon |
|
32 |
N |
10 |
|
7:0815 |
18 |
|
70 |
SW |
>30 |
drizzle |
8:0700 |
8 |
1020 |
74 |
|
nil |
partly |
9:0800 |
14 |
1018 |
66 |
NW |
|
cirrus |
10:0700 |
12 |
1020 |
80 |
SE |
gentle |
cirrus |
11:0630 |
11 |
1020 |
81 |
|
none |
cumulostratus |
12:0700 |
13 |
1029 |
81 |
|
none |
high cirrus |
13:0730 |
16 31@1500 |
1022 |
68 |
west |
|
clear |
14:0730 |
18 |
1018 |
40 |
SW |
|
clear |
15:0700 |
13 |
1022 |
78 |
|
none |
clear |
16:0700 |
15 |
1010 |
high |
NE |
8 |
clear |
17:0700 17:1800 |
13 36+@1600 30 |
1007 1003 |
68 22 |
N N |
none none |
clear cirrostratus |
18:0700 |
20 |
1005 |
63 |
SW |
10 |
cloudy |
19:0700 :1430 |
17 24 |
1015 1010 |
70 40 |
S-SE |
none 6 |
cirstratus cumulus |
20:0700 |
14 |
1020 |
90 |
|
none |
cumulus rained |
21:0700 |
13 |
1020 |
86 |
Se |
breeze |
cumstratus |
22:0700 |
11 |
1020 |
85 |
|
none |
cirrostratus |
23:0630 :1200 |
10 hot |
|
84 |
E north |
|
clear |
On
Reaching Eucla on the 23rd April, there
was a large High over the Bight and directing southerly winds over much of the east
continent and this had caused the S - SE winds for the last 4-5 days in camp.
Karst
features tagged
ISX NUMBER |
NULLARBOR ID NUMBER |
COMMENTS ABOUT THE FEATURE |
ISX001 |
6N970 |
large Claypan doline/sink NE
of Mullamullang |
ISX002 |
6N971 |
small limestone cave 450m
west ISX001 |
ISX003 |
6N1950 |
TWIN SADDLE CAVE |
ISX004 |
6N1951 |
|
ISX005 |
6N1952 |
THRU TRIP TO WATER |
ISX006 |
6N1953 |
BRIDGE COLLAPSE |
ISX007 |
6N1954 |
HIGH CO2 LEVELS |
ISX008 |
6N1955 |
CREVICE ONLY THE “OH NO
CAVE” |
ISX009 |
6N1953A |
EAST END OF ISX006 FOR CAVE
HERE |
ISX010 |
NONE |
TAG IS MISSING PRESUMED
LOST |
ISX011 |
|
TAG IS ON IAN COLLETTE’S
CAR |
ISX012 |
6N1956 |
COLOGNA ROCKHOLE |
ISX013 |
6N78 |
NO 6N TAG PLACED HERE |
ISX014 |
6N1961 |
BLOWHOLE |
ISX015 |
6N1957 |
ABORIGINAL WATERHOLE |
ISX016 |
6N1958 |
SMALL CAVE SURFACE DOLINE |
ISX017 |
6N1959 |
SMALL CAVE SURFACE DOLINE |
ISX018 |
6N1960 |
DOLINE |
ISX019 |
6N79 |
|
ISX020 |
6N1962 |
|
ISX021 |
6N80 |
NO 6N TAG |
ISX022 |
6N1963 |
|
ISX023 |
6N1964 |
SMALL HOLE |
ISX024 |
6N1965 |
SMALL POT |
ISX025 |
6N1971 |
ABORIGINAL WATERHOLE |
ISX026 |
6N1966 |
|
ISX027 |
6N1967 |
|
ISX028 |
6N1968 |
|
ISX029 |
6N1969 |
|
ISX030 |
6N1970 |
ABORIGINAL WATERHOLE FOUND
IN 1999 |
ISX031 |
6N1972 |
UNSTABLE FURTHER DOWN MULGA
LOGS PLACED TO BRACE ENTRY IN UNSTABLE AREA |
ISX032 |
6N1973 |
SMALL CAVE IN DOLINE
SURROUNDED BY SNOTTY GOBBLES |
ISX033 |
6N1974 |
|
ISX034 |
6N200 |
NO 6N TAG |
ISX035 |
|
NOT USED |
ISX036 |
6N1975 |
LARGE ROCK WATER HOLE |
ISX037 |
6N1976 |
SMALL CAVE EAST OF 6N1975 |
OTHER
CAVES/FEATURES VISITED
NUMBER |
COMMENTS |
6N37 |
MULLAMULLANG |
6N73 |
20M BLOWHOLE NE OF
MULLAMULLANG |
6N78/ISX013 |
LARGE COLLAPSED DOLINE NO
PROSPECTS |
6N79/ISX019 |
LARGE SLOPING ENTRANCE 38M
DIG AT END STREAMWAY |
6N80/ISX021 |
DOLINE WITH TREES GROWING
IN IT NO CAVE |
6N518 |
DOLINE STH OF MULLALULLANG |
6N519 |
DOLINE NTH EAST OF
MULLAMULLANG |
6N699 |
ABORIGINAL WATER HOLE JUST
NTH OF MULLAMULLANG CAMPSITE |
6N133 |
SE CORNER OF SOUTH DOLINE
OF MULLAMULLANG |
6N1330 |
REFRIGERATOR CAVE IN DOLINE
STH 6N78 |
6N1323 |
SHALLOW DOLINE NO CAVE |
6N1332 |
SMALL CAVE IN 6N37 DOLINE
ON WEST SIDE |
6N1498 |
ABORIGINAL WATER HOLE SE OF
MULLAMULLANG |
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